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Hardwire your Chargepoint Flex

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624 views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  dnguyen  
#1 ·
Thought I smelled something unusual in the garage last week. As it turns out the recepticle for the Chargepoint Flex failed after only 2 years of service. I use the charger on a weekly basis usually on slow speed and don't unplug the charger from its recepticle. I am having my garage painted and wanted to remove the charger. See below is to the condition of the plug and recepticle when I pulled them apart. Next week I'm having the unit hard wired so to avoid this problem. Don't think our industrial recepticles can take the constant draw that an EV has or I just got a bad one.
 

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#2 ·
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#4 ·
You would be amazed how many licensed electrician don't know this stuff. My son in law had same thing happen. Was charging his Tesla and noticed burning smell in garage. Almost burned himself when he touched the plug to his charger. Again, all this done by licensed electrician he hired. When he called the guy up and explained what I told him, the electrician was flummoxed. Had no clue. Sadly many in the trades are against any "new tech". So they choose to not learn about it. Whether it's induction stoves, heat pumps and heat pump water heaters, tankless water heaters, EVs and their chargers, etc.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Possibly an inferior receptacle, imported from China or similar. I’ve seen counterfeit electrical components have similar “episodes” many times. It’s often difficult to easily identify quality components if one isn’t familiar with using them, and since the counterfeits often sell at a small fraction of the price well-made components go for, it’s often another way electricians can add to their profit margin
 
#10 ·
I put links up to the proper outlets to use quite a few posts back. Though even if a good outlet, you're still best advised to be cautious when getting into 40 amp territory and going over that I'd do hardwire. In my case I have mine limited to 25 amps so if I choose to un my shop heater I won't over extend my circuit, since I only ran a 60 amp main to it and I did not run heavy enough cable to go higher than that. Trying to hang 6ga cable by yourself (especially if you're an old fart like me) is absolute murder on your body
 
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#11 ·
Yes, as others have mentioned, hardwire your EVSE if at all possible. By code, a NEMA 14-50 outlet maximum amp draw is 40 amps on a 50 amp circuit I believe. I would never do 40 amp charging on a 14-50 plug. Too many examples of problems even on outlets installed by licensed electricians.
 
#12 ·
And as I noted prior many licensed electricians don't have a clue when it comes to EVs and their charging requirements. My son in law just went though this after coming out to his garage recently to the smell of burning plastic. Yet his Tesla charger was fully done by licensed electrician.
On a properly installed properly made outlet I'd have no reservations running it at 40 amps all day every day. Sadly many old school trade people approach new(er) tech with a jaundiced eye. Try asking a plumber about a tankless water heater, or a heat pump type water heater. You'll get every excuse in the book about why they want to rob you blind to install something that is A, FAR better and B, even EASIER to install than old school stuff.
My SIL also had an issue with an HVAC guy doing a heat pump (mini split) install in their outbuilding. Had he not stopped him and had him actually read instructions the guy would have totally ruined the system because he refused to accept new tech or learn to work with it not against it.
Watch many of the State of Charge videos on YouTube and look at how many very dangerous situations licensed electricians are putting people into. Why? This ISN'T that hard! 10 min of research and even a laymen seems to know more. So many of these people are either just lazy or simply "afraid" of technology. New tech to be sure rather than embracing it and leaning it and how to work with it instead of against it.
I only have some of these things because I did my own installs. Heck my tankless water heater was installed (by me) back in 2005! And it's still working perfectly. I may be replacing it soon (not because it's failing) but because the tech has changed slightly giving better control and more efficient solutions and I am exploring installing either a heat pump water heater or a hybrid system of some sort. And believe me I'm going to do it myself! And I know it will be done right
 
#14 ·
However once again: Note he specifies "cheap" 14-50 outlets. Not the heavy duty outlets certified for sustained 50 amp draw. There is nothing wrong with using an "outlet" as long as it's a correct outlet
 
#15 ·
I had mine done by a professional that only installs these systems for the power company. He installed directly to my circuit breaker box a 40 amp breaker then put a box outside that I can shut the power off or would burn up before anything else does. It sits in between the circuit breaker box and the charger. This is something you may want to consider. It might seem like overkill but it would save your expensive charger.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for all this advise however the electrician that showed up this time reconginzed the wrong recepticle was used right off the bat. They said when it was installed 2 years ago when that plug met code, it wasn't only until this year that it was updated with the EV recepticle or hardwire requirements. Needless to say I had the charger hardwired, on a ground fault recepticle even though it's gargage kept. Enclosed are updated pics of the house fire that almost was....boy was I lucky. Oh ya this repair cost me $560.00
 

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#17 ·
Never a bad way to go. Our cars will not tax a properly wired and properly spec'd outlet. Like especially in my case as I have my charger limited to 25 amps. This way I can run my hanging garage heater and the charger (if I should choose) at the same time without over taxing my 60 amp main drop circuit. Unless I run the heater full tilt. Which I honestly don't heave to. Honestly if it gets that cold here I need to run it full out, I will simply choose not to work outside or not charge the car at the same time. Running both at once would be very rare for me since I take advantage of Com Ed's hourly rates at night which runs my price per KWh to .04-.05 and since it's an overnight charge anyway who cares if it takes a couple hours longer? Nice thing is I can cut the breaker to one or the other in my drop panel very easily if I should need to run either full tilt. I just don't feel like cutting the cord on my charger to hard wire it to the breaker.
Though I may still do so at some point here. Especially if I get a second ev that needs a higher charge rate.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I installed a 14-50 recepticle as well, been charging it for more than a year with the original Toyota mobile charger, now i'm also charge my Model Y with that recepticle. I always set the max Amp at 32Amp, as the Toyota max amp is 32amp as well, and the Tesla mobile charger indicate 32amp maximum right away when i plug it in. 32amp is safe for 14-50r, even though it is rated at 50amp but I would never run it continously at 50Amps even if the chargers allow it (fortunately the mobile charger doesn't allow it anyways)
OEM Mobile chargers are way more than enough for our needs (unless you drive 200+ miles a day) I dont see why people need to buy 3rd party charger for faster charging.