Thanks for the info. I will try it out I am getting similar results as what you had prior to tweaking your pedal/throttle
Efficiency improvement.
Been driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
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Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Thanks a lot for sharing this. Did you try cruise control instead of pedal adjusting?Been driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
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No, I have not gone to a major hwy and my max speed at this session is only 91km/h.Thanks a lot for sharing this. Did you try cruise control instead of pedal adjusting?
What is your efficiency like at temperatures below freezing? Also, do you have the AWD or FWD model?
Lately, with temperatures of around 20 degrees Fahrenheit, I've been struggling to get more than 1.5 mi/kWh out of my AWD model, and my total range on a full charge has been reduced to less than 100 miles, even with the climate controls typically set to "Eco."
One thing I am noticing is that below about 35 degrees, the brake regeneration boost will simply refuse activate; the display just says "see manual."
I wonder if the lack of regeneration at cold temperatures is eating up a lot of efficiency.
Fingers crossed that the range doesn't drop even more once temperatures drop below 0 F.
Lately, with temperatures of around 20 degrees Fahrenheit, I've been struggling to get more than 1.5 mi/kWh out of my AWD model, and my total range on a full charge has been reduced to less than 100 miles, even with the climate controls typically set to "Eco."
One thing I am noticing is that below about 35 degrees, the brake regeneration boost will simply refuse activate; the display just says "see manual."
I wonder if the lack of regeneration at cold temperatures is eating up a lot of efficiency.
Fingers crossed that the range doesn't drop even more once temperatures drop below 0 F.
FWD owner here. We had period of about 2 weeks pre Christmas with temps at -10C (14F) and still never dipped below 2.3m/kw. Range at 100% with AC on at ECO was 170m. Also never seen any issues with the regen brake not working. But, if your battery is full, i.e. you set off at 100% SOC then regen brake is disabled until there is enough room in the battery to charge into.What is your efficiency like at temperatures below freezing? Also, do you have the AWD or FWD model?
Lately, with temperatures of around 20 degrees Fahrenheit, I've been struggling to get more than 1.5 mi/kWh out of my AWD model, and my total range on a full charge has been reduced to less than 100 miles, even with the climate controls typically set to "Eco."
One thing I am noticing is that below about 35 degrees, the brake regeneration boost will simply refuse activate; the display just says "see manual."
I wonder if the lack of regeneration at cold temperatures is eating up a lot of efficiency.
Fingers crossed that the range doesn't drop even more once temperatures drop below 0 F.
Thanks for sharing. Possibly related to the fact that my vehicle has a different battery pack than yours; because even at well under 30% SOC, my vehicle's regen boost appears to be disabled at temperatures below ~32F.FWD owner here. We had period of about 2 weeks pre Christmas with temps at -10C (14F) and still never dipped below 2.3m/kw. Range at 100% with AC on at ECO was 170m. Also never seen any issues with the regen brake not working. But, if your battery is full, i.e. you set off at 100% SOC then regen brake is disabled until there is enough room in the battery to charge into.
Seeing as your efficiency in similarly cold weather is about 25% better than what I am obtaining, it increases my suspicion that my vehicle's disabled regen boost in the cold is somehow related.
Perhaps someone with a North American AWD model (CATL battery) can chime in as to whether or not their regen boost is similarly disabled at cold temperatures?
I have been disappointed that my regen boost will almost never activate so far and the error message does not tell me why. The one time it did was the one time I tried with it was over 40 degrees F, but it would activate for a bit and then shutdown again. I've only had the car for a week, and hadn't dived into the manual or other resources to try figure out what's going on, so thanks for your post and alerting me to ambient temperature being a factor.Thanks for sharing. Possibly related to the fact that my vehicle has a different battery pack than yours; because even at
Perhaps someone with a North American AWD model (CATL battery) can chime in as to whether or not their regen boost is similarly disabled at cold temperatures?
I hope Toyota can come up with a worthwhile explanation and/or fix. It was very frustrating to drive down from the mountains without being able to use the engine to slow the car sufficiently while also knowing that some potential energy was being wasted. I'm not as interested in one-pedal driving as a lot of vehicle reviewers seem to be, but I don't want to use the brakes more than I should have to either. If Toyota can explain to me with data that the benefit to battery life from this limitation outweighs the loss of energy and engine braking implications, I would appreciate it.
Just curious, when you guys are referring to the range, which reading are you using? The one from the dashboard or the one in the remote connect app?
which is more accurate?
I had a couple of weeks where it was close to -10c but never had such a low range as 150miles
More like 230 miles or so. according to the dashboard reading
I'm FWD and in Vancouver canada.
which is more accurate?
I had a couple of weeks where it was close to -10c but never had such a low range as 150miles
More like 230 miles or so. according to the dashboard reading
I'm FWD and in Vancouver canada.
I am referring to the dashboard display. My app always indicates 295 miles on a full charge, which seems impossible, and would imply an efficiency of around ~4.5-5 miles/kWh, based on the battery's apparent 'net' capacity.Just curious, when you guys are referring to the range, which reading are you using? The one from the dashboard or the one in the remote connect app?
which is more accurate?
I had a couple of weeks where it was close to -10c but never had such a low range as 150miles
More like 230 miles or so. according to the dashboard reading
I'm FWD and in Vancouver canada.
My dashboard display has of late been indicating a range (with a full charge) in the realm of 150 on the low end, to 250+ on the high end—depending on climate control usage.
That said, it appears that even on the low end, that's likely an overestimate.
I say this because I have been obtaining an 'overall' driving efficiency of only around 1.8 mi/kWh (also according to the dashboard display). 1.8 mi/kWh x 60 or 65 kWh of usable battery capacity (to 0%) would imply an actual range that's lower than the lowest estimate I've seen on the dash—or just a bit over 100 miles.
Since I'd generally been charging the vehicle every night, I'd not really observed how the dashboard estimates might continue to change once I allowed the state of charge to drop significantly. This week, I drove my standard route—about 25 miles/day—and by mid-week had only about 25% charge remaining according to the dash, and a also seemingly more accurate estimate of remaining range...<30 miles. Overall, that would imply ~100 miles or less on a full change, with temperatures between ~15 and 35 degrees F.
I've now commenced to taking accurate notes so that I can get some solid figures and estimates.
Also, the app doesn't seem to know when the climate control is running, and doesn't adjust accordingly, or at least not in 'real time' like the dash display.
That said, when I start playing with the numbers (295 mile range display on the dash at full charge, probable efficiency figures in ideal conditions, etc.), I repeatedly come away with the conclusion that the vehicle's software thinks that the usable battery capacity is closer to its advertised capacity of 72.4 kWh (which was long assumed to be its net capacity...), versus the 60-65 kWh that European testers have derived.
What is your current average as for miles/kWh?
I’m getting around 22.4kwh per 100kmWhat is your current average as for miles/kWh?
Not sure what that converts to
I am having similar experience with AWD U.S. model. Dash reading said 300 miles of range when I picked it up from the dealer and after I charged it to full at a level 2 charger yesterday. But I got about 150 miles out of the initial dealer chargewith an estimated 40 miles left at 21% charge (from what the app says; have figured out how to get the car to show me percentage charge) the first go round. I was able to add 55.6 kWh to fill it at Level II charger (72.4+55.6=16.8 which is 23% of 72.4).
So that's less than 200 miles of range tops and probably closer to 175 with barely using the HVAC and mostly in town driving. We've been having high temps in upper 30s or 40s F and it's stored in a garage that does not go below 35 F. I don't think we driven it much below 30 F.
150/55.6 = 2.69 mi/kWh, which is consistent with what we are seeing in real time on the trip monitor.
So a total range of less than 200 miles (i.e., 72.4*2.69 = 195) is pretty far below EPA estimates and Toyota advertising. Question is whether it is all due to cold operation conditions, or poor/less than advertised efficiency.
So that's less than 200 miles of range tops and probably closer to 175 with barely using the HVAC and mostly in town driving. We've been having high temps in upper 30s or 40s F and it's stored in a garage that does not go below 35 F. I don't think we driven it much below 30 F.
150/55.6 = 2.69 mi/kWh, which is consistent with what we are seeing in real time on the trip monitor.
So a total range of less than 200 miles (i.e., 72.4*2.69 = 195) is pretty far below EPA estimates and Toyota advertising. Question is whether it is all due to cold operation conditions, or poor/less than advertised efficiency.
That's 4.46 km/kWh (100/22.4), which is 2.77 mi/kWhI’m getting around 22.4kwh per 100km
Not sure what that converts to
That 230 miles is probably the guestimation travel only and not the real range. You should set the trip meter to calculate the exact miles. Although, since my average now is at around 17.3kwh. It is very possible. Mine is also the FWD model.Just curious, when you guys are referring to the range, which reading are you using? The one from the dashboard or the one in the remote connect app?
which is more accurate?
I had a couple of weeks where it was close to -10c but never had such a low range as 150miles
More like 230 miles or so. according to the dashboard reading
I'm FWD and in Vancouver canada.
*where 64kwh is the usealble capacity
64÷17.3=3.7
3.7x100=370
370km range for me.
If at 71kwh
It will be 410 km range.
I dont full charge the car anymore.
I never activated the regen boost, it feels like Im dragging something really heavy. With it on seems like Im loosing more energy at acceleration and at cruising speed. Likewise for the eco driving mode.I have been disappointed that my regen boost will almost never activate so far and the error message does not tell me why. The one time it did was the one time I tried with it was over 40 degrees F, but it would activate for a bit and then shutdown again. I've only had the car for a week, and hadn't dived into the manual or other resources to try figure out what's going on, so thanks for your post and alerting me to ambient temperature being a factor.
I hope Toyota can come up with a worthwhile explanation and/or fix. It was very frustrating to drive down from the mountains without being able to use the engine to slow the car sufficiently while also knowing that some potential energy was being wasted. I'm not as interested in one-pedal driving as a lot of vehicle reviewers seem to be, but I don't want to use the brakes more than I should have to either. If Toyota can explain to me with data that the benefit to battery life from this limitation outweighs the loss of energy and engine braking implications, I would appreciate it.
For a week before Christmas we had a dumping of snow and the temp dipped down to -12c. I did also notice a drop in range than usual. To conserve more power I only use the butt heater and the radiant heater to heat up the cabin. I occasionally turn on the eco climate just to defog.
Ok. Regen Braking. Just so we all have a level set since there is a bit of mystery out there. Some are reporting different behavior and since this vehicle is soo new, I don't have an understanding on if its working or what's correct. I am sure there are others like me.
So, When I am going down hill I press that "Foot on the peddle" button. and the Bz starts to slow or "Drags". Also that button is pretty particular....doesn't always work....getting that disable message often...not sure why. If I come to a flat spot in the road and the Regen Braking is still "on" the Bz continues to drag. Is that normal ? Am I using more energy overcoming the drag or what is happening. I can understand that it would drag going down hill, but why is there still a very much perceived drag, on the gas, on the flats or uphill?
Many use a Tesla ( which I have not driven but my sisters have) as the basis for how Regen Braking should work . They push the gas, it goes, they lift off the peddle and it slows, sort of like a golf cart. They have no "coasting" option. Is the Bz performance designed to be similar when the Regen Braking is on ? If so, yuck.
Thoughts?
So, When I am going down hill I press that "Foot on the peddle" button. and the Bz starts to slow or "Drags". Also that button is pretty particular....doesn't always work....getting that disable message often...not sure why. If I come to a flat spot in the road and the Regen Braking is still "on" the Bz continues to drag. Is that normal ? Am I using more energy overcoming the drag or what is happening. I can understand that it would drag going down hill, but why is there still a very much perceived drag, on the gas, on the flats or uphill?
Many use a Tesla ( which I have not driven but my sisters have) as the basis for how Regen Braking should work . They push the gas, it goes, they lift off the peddle and it slows, sort of like a golf cart. They have no "coasting" option. Is the Bz performance designed to be similar when the Regen Braking is on ? If so, yuck.
Thoughts?
Are you able to get the same results with the air conditioning on? I noticed most of your photos do not have the "fan" symbol on. (With the exception of the last pic). I will try this technique. I am assuming this is the same driving style as with Toyota hybrids; step on gas to accelerate to desired speed; release accelerator and re-engage to maintain cruising speed. My best effort with interior cabin temp set to 21.5 C with "Auto" and "Econo" turned on and drive setting "Eco" is 21 kwh/100km. On average I am getting 25kwh/100km.Been driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
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BZ4X XLE AWD with Technology Package
British Columbia, Canada
Lowest temp past 30 days: -5 C
Highest temp past 30 days : 12 C
FWD owner here. We had period of about 2 weeks pre Christmas with temps at -10C (14F) and still never dipped below 2.3m/kw. Range at 100% with AC on at ECO was 170m. Also never seen any issues with the regen brake not working. But, if your battery is full, i.e. you set off at 100% SOC then regen brake is disabled until there is enough room in the battery to charge into.
Thanks for the tip, I will try this outBeen driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
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The heat pump is not turned on...Been driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
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I read that the brake regeneration won't work if the battery is fully charged, as in it can't accept additional energy. The manual doesn't address the issue at all...useless, really.What is your efficiency like at temperatures below freezing? Also, do you have the AWD or FWD model?
Lately, with temperatures of around 20 degrees Fahrenheit, I've been struggling to get more than 1.5 mi/kWh out of my AWD model, and my total range on a full charge has been reduced to less than 100 miles, even with the climate controls typically set to "Eco."
One thing I am noticing is that below about 35 degrees, the brake regeneration boost will simply refuse activate; the display just says "see manual."
I wonder if the lack of regeneration at cold temperatures is eating up a lot of efficiency.
Fingers crossed that the range doesn't drop even more once temperatures drop below 0 F.
The bZ4X Regen Braking button is a one-setting button; it's either ON or OFF. Having said that, regeneration is ALWAYS functional but with the button activated and the green foot-on-pedal symbol illuminated on the center cluster, the regeneration is, let's be crystal clear, very agressive on the bZ4X. So Vern, your Regen is serviceable and operational. Audi has the regeneration settings available on paddles behind the steering and there are different levels of "aggressiveness" for regeneration. Similar system on the Polestar 2 with multiple settings; same on the Porsche Taycan.Ok. Regen Braking. Just so we all have a level set since there is a bit of mystery out there. Some are reporting different behavior and since this vehicle is soo new, I don't have an understanding on if its working or what's correct. I am sure there are others like me.
So, When I am going down hill I press that "Foot on the peddle" button. and the Bz starts to slow or "Drags". Also that button is pretty particular....doesn't always work....getting that disable message often...not sure why. If I come to a flat spot in the road and the Regen Braking is still "on" the Bz continues to drag. Is that normal ? Am I using more energy overcoming the drag or what is happening. I can understand that it would drag going down hill, but why is there still a very much perceived drag, on the gas, on the flats or uphill?
Many use a Tesla ( which I have not driven but my sisters have) as the basis for how Regen Braking should work . They push the gas, it goes, they lift off the peddle and it slows, sort of like a golf cart. They have no "coasting" option. Is the Bz performance designed to be similar when the Regen Braking is on ? If so, yuck.
Thoughts?
I use the regeneration button tactically, e.g. going home coming off the highway at 105km/h on my downhill exit with a STOP sign at the bottom. The way I see it, if I can spare heating up and wearing down my brakes via the bZ4X regeneration braking (RB), I will turn it on. If I go to Montreal, the city of one STOP sign every 300 feet apart, I will probably have it ON and adjust my right foot accordingly in that I won't "let off" the accelerator pedal like I would with an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle with or without an automatic transmission. I switch right foot technique from removing all pressure to slowing releasing pressure on the accelerator. It's an adjustment and requires experimentation if this is your first BEV. The bZ4X is no light weight and I suspect Toyota won't be selling brake pads cheap as compared to a Corolla. Word to the wise: here in the Montreal area during winter slush, snow, salt and ice combination, it behooves one to USE the brakes to keep them wearing down in a healthy fashion. Tesla owners reported brakes seizing up due to the lack of use.
I just removed my winter tires and installed my all season tires and combined with the warmer temperatures, I have been noticing a much better energy consumption figure than what I was habituated to view on this energy guzzler bZ4X. I have the FWD.
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