Thanks for the info. I will try it out I am getting similar results as what you had prior to tweaking your pedal/throttle
Thanks a lot for sharing this. Did you try cruise control instead of pedal adjusting?Been driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
View attachment 1253
View attachment 1255
View attachment 1252
View attachment 1254
View attachment 1251
View attachment 1256
View attachment 1250
View attachment 1249
View attachment 1248
No, I have not gone to a major hwy and my max speed at this session is only 91km/h.Thanks a lot for sharing this. Did you try cruise control instead of pedal adjusting?
FWD owner here. We had period of about 2 weeks pre Christmas with temps at -10C (14F) and still never dipped below 2.3m/kw. Range at 100% with AC on at ECO was 170m. Also never seen any issues with the regen brake not working. But, if your battery is full, i.e. you set off at 100% SOC then regen brake is disabled until there is enough room in the battery to charge into.What is your efficiency like at temperatures below freezing? Also, do you have the AWD or FWD model?
Lately, with temperatures of around 20 degrees Fahrenheit, I've been struggling to get more than 1.5 mi/kWh out of my AWD model, and my total range on a full charge has been reduced to less than 100 miles, even with the climate controls typically set to "Eco."
One thing I am noticing is that below about 35 degrees, the brake regeneration boost will simply refuse activate; the display just says "see manual."
I wonder if the lack of regeneration at cold temperatures is eating up a lot of efficiency.
Fingers crossed that the range doesn't drop even more once temperatures drop below 0 F.
Thanks for sharing. Possibly related to the fact that my vehicle has a different battery pack than yours; because even at well under 30% SOC, my vehicle's regen boost appears to be disabled at temperatures below ~32F.FWD owner here. We had period of about 2 weeks pre Christmas with temps at -10C (14F) and still never dipped below 2.3m/kw. Range at 100% with AC on at ECO was 170m. Also never seen any issues with the regen brake not working. But, if your battery is full, i.e. you set off at 100% SOC then regen brake is disabled until there is enough room in the battery to charge into.
I have been disappointed that my regen boost will almost never activate so far and the error message does not tell me why. The one time it did was the one time I tried with it was over 40 degrees F, but it would activate for a bit and then shutdown again. I've only had the car for a week, and hadn't dived into the manual or other resources to try figure out what's going on, so thanks for your post and alerting me to ambient temperature being a factor.Thanks for sharing. Possibly related to the fact that my vehicle has a different battery pack than yours; because even at
Perhaps someone with a North American AWD model (CATL battery) can chime in as to whether or not their regen boost is similarly disabled at cold temperatures?
I am referring to the dashboard display. My app always indicates 295 miles on a full charge, which seems impossible, and would imply an efficiency of around ~4.5-5 miles/kWh, based on the battery's apparent 'net' capacity.Just curious, when you guys are referring to the range, which reading are you using? The one from the dashboard or the one in the remote connect app?
which is more accurate?
I had a couple of weeks where it was close to -10c but never had such a low range as 150miles
More like 230 miles or so. according to the dashboard reading
I'm FWD and in Vancouver canada.
I’m getting around 22.4kwh per 100kmWhat is your current average as for miles/kWh?
That's 4.46 km/kWh (100/22.4), which is 2.77 mi/kWhI’m getting around 22.4kwh per 100km
Not sure what that converts to
That 230 miles is probably the guestimation travel only and not the real range. You should set the trip meter to calculate the exact miles. Although, since my average now is at around 17.3kwh. It is very possible. Mine is also the FWD model.Just curious, when you guys are referring to the range, which reading are you using? The one from the dashboard or the one in the remote connect app?
which is more accurate?
I had a couple of weeks where it was close to -10c but never had such a low range as 150miles
More like 230 miles or so. according to the dashboard reading
I'm FWD and in Vancouver canada.
I never activated the regen boost, it feels like Im dragging something really heavy. With it on seems like Im loosing more energy at acceleration and at cruising speed. Likewise for the eco driving mode.I have been disappointed that my regen boost will almost never activate so far and the error message does not tell me why. The one time it did was the one time I tried with it was over 40 degrees F, but it would activate for a bit and then shutdown again. I've only had the car for a week, and hadn't dived into the manual or other resources to try figure out what's going on, so thanks for your post and alerting me to ambient temperature being a factor.
I hope Toyota can come up with a worthwhile explanation and/or fix. It was very frustrating to drive down from the mountains without being able to use the engine to slow the car sufficiently while also knowing that some potential energy was being wasted. I'm not as interested in one-pedal driving as a lot of vehicle reviewers seem to be, but I don't want to use the brakes more than I should have to either. If Toyota can explain to me with data that the benefit to battery life from this limitation outweighs the loss of energy and engine braking implications, I would appreciate it.
Are you able to get the same results with the air conditioning on? I noticed most of your photos do not have the "fan" symbol on. (With the exception of the last pic). I will try this technique. I am assuming this is the same driving style as with Toyota hybrids; step on gas to accelerate to desired speed; release accelerator and re-engage to maintain cruising speed. My best effort with interior cabin temp set to 21.5 C with "Auto" and "Econo" turned on and drive setting "Eco" is 21 kwh/100km. On average I am getting 25kwh/100km.Been driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
View attachment 1253
View attachment 1255
View attachment 1252
View attachment 1254
View attachment 1251
View attachment 1256
View attachment 1250
View attachment 1249
View attachment 1248
FWD owner here. We had period of about 2 weeks pre Christmas with temps at -10C (14F) and still never dipped below 2.3m/kw. Range at 100% with AC on at ECO was 170m. Also never seen any issues with the regen brake not working. But, if your battery is full, i.e. you set off at 100% SOC then regen brake is disabled until there is enough room in the battery to charge into.
Thanks for the tip, I will try this outBeen driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
View attachment 1253
View attachment 1255
View attachment 1252
View attachment 1254
View attachment 1251
View attachment 1256
View attachment 1250
View attachment 1249
View attachment 1248
The heat pump is not turned on...Been driving with the power graph visually on display. This is very helpful for me to achieve better efficiency. By experementing with the pedal, found out when at speed by pulling back the throttle a bit and a bit more will save you energy but will not lose you speed. I think this is the reason why the car gets a poor range. I think there's a power loss when its at crusing speed, simply pulling back on the pedal a bit will save you energy. My average is now at only 17.1kw - 17.3kwh per 100km. I reset the graph 5 days ago. It started at 20.5kwh. Heck, I was at 25kwh before when I got the car, then, 22. Then I started experimenting..
Hopefully this might help other ppl to achieve better efficiency.
If other people can confirm this as well, then we might have something. The throttle system might have to be investigated.
17.3kwh average per 100km started almost 200km ago.
View attachment 1253
View attachment 1255
View attachment 1252
View attachment 1254
View attachment 1251
View attachment 1256
View attachment 1250
View attachment 1249
View attachment 1248
I read that the brake regeneration won't work if the battery is fully charged, as in it can't accept additional energy. The manual doesn't address the issue at all...useless, really.What is your efficiency like at temperatures below freezing? Also, do you have the AWD or FWD model?
Lately, with temperatures of around 20 degrees Fahrenheit, I've been struggling to get more than 1.5 mi/kWh out of my AWD model, and my total range on a full charge has been reduced to less than 100 miles, even with the climate controls typically set to "Eco."
One thing I am noticing is that below about 35 degrees, the brake regeneration boost will simply refuse activate; the display just says "see manual."
I wonder if the lack of regeneration at cold temperatures is eating up a lot of efficiency.
Fingers crossed that the range doesn't drop even more once temperatures drop below 0 F.
The bZ4X Regen Braking button is a one-setting button; it's either ON or OFF. Having said that, regeneration is ALWAYS functional but with the button activated and the green foot-on-pedal symbol illuminated on the center cluster, the regeneration is, let's be crystal clear, very agressive on the bZ4X. So Vern, your Regen is serviceable and operational. Audi has the regeneration settings available on paddles behind the steering and there are different levels of "aggressiveness" for regeneration. Similar system on the Polestar 2 with multiple settings; same on the Porsche Taycan.Ok. Regen Braking. Just so we all have a level set since there is a bit of mystery out there. Some are reporting different behavior and since this vehicle is soo new, I don't have an understanding on if its working or what's correct. I am sure there are others like me.
So, When I am going down hill I press that "Foot on the peddle" button. and the Bz starts to slow or "Drags". Also that button is pretty particular....doesn't always work....getting that disable message often...not sure why. If I come to a flat spot in the road and the Regen Braking is still "on" the Bz continues to drag. Is that normal ? Am I using more energy overcoming the drag or what is happening. I can understand that it would drag going down hill, but why is there still a very much perceived drag, on the gas, on the flats or uphill?
Many use a Tesla ( which I have not driven but my sisters have) as the basis for how Regen Braking should work . They push the gas, it goes, they lift off the peddle and it slows, sort of like a golf cart. They have no "coasting" option. Is the Bz performance designed to be similar when the Regen Braking is on ? If so, yuck.
Thoughts?